月度归档：2019年08月

Rolex Datejust 41 in Steel with Dark Rhodium dial and Jubilee bracelet

One of the more interesting watches to come from Rolex this year was the Rolex Datejust 41 in steel with a Dark Rhodium dial and Jubilee five-piece link bracelet.

With a larger case size (41 mm in diameter), a smooth (not fluted) bezel, and 18K white gold indexes on top of a real rhodium plated dial, Rolex has made a watch that is aesthetically much more pleasing to my eye.

Rolex Datejust 41 in steel with white gold fluted bezel (Ref. 126334)

Surely, many will disagree as the Datejust is one of Rolex’s many icons, with a huge following. Nevertheless, beauty is in the eye of the beholder, and this new, modern, Datejust, ticks many of the boxes for me personally.

The dark rhodium dial, in particular, or even the new blue dial variant – which notably comes with a fluted white gold bezel appeal to my tastes. Moreover, I am sure these contemporary Datejusts will attract younger buyers, with more modern tastes.

Rolex Cellini Moonphase

This year at Baselworld, Rolex introduced a new model within the Cellini collection, the Cellini Moonphase. The watch is presented in a 39 mm polished 18K Everose gold case and features what Rolex refers to as a double bezel, that’s domed and fluted. Rose gold applied indexes, and a printed minutes/seconds scale, along with lance-shaped rose gold hour and minute hands, and a rose gold baton shaped central seconds hand, indicate the time. A blue centrally mounted hand, with an aptly shaped crescent moon tip, points to the date around the printed out chapter ring.

A blue enameled disc at 6 o’clock, which has a unique meteorite applique, indicates the current moonphase, via a, rose gold arrow at 12 o’clock on the lunar subdial.

Each day, the moonphase disc follows the lunar cycle, as shown on Rolex’s website.

“As each night goes by, the moonphase disc follows the lunar cycle: when the meteorite applique is aligned with the moonphase indicator, the moon will be full in the night to come. Rotating clockwise, the disc shows the waning phases until the silver ring reaches the top, indicating the new moon. Thereupon the lunar cycle continues through the waxing phases until the moon is full again.”

This new timepiece is powered by caliber 3195, an all-new automatic movement manufactured in-house and adjusted to −2/+2 seconds per day after casing (making it a Rolex Superlative Chronometer). The moonphase indicator module is patented by Rolex and accurate for 122 years.

One of the unique features is the moonphase disc which is crafted from meteorites, known as “siderites,” that are hundreds of millions of years old, according to Rolex. The metallic interweaving, known as “Windmanstatten” patterns, is revealed during the nitric acid and ethanol etching before the disc is applied to the blue enameled lunar disc.

A solid 18K rose gold, push in crown – that controls all of the watch’s functions – has a ridged edge, is emblazoned with the Rolex crown, as is the dial at 12 o’clock. Water-resistance is 50 meters. a brown tobacco colored alligator leather strap with a folding Crownclasp in Everose gold completes the elegant aesthetic of this non-professional Rolex watch model. (Ref. 50535)

Is Paul Newman’s Daytona really worth all the hype?

This is the actual Rolex Daytona gifted to Paul Newman by his wife, engraved with “DRIVE CAREFULLY ME,” and worn by the actor for many years.

It’s a Rolex Daytona Ref. 6239 with an exotic “Paul Newman” panda dial made by Singer, which means it has a white dial with black registers, red graduations on a black chapter ring, and distinctive squares on the end of the hash marks within subdials.

A reference 6239, with Paul Newman dial, could fetch anywhere from $40,000 to as high as $90,000 according to James Lamdin of AnalogShift. However, due to the condition of this Daytona, the selling price would likely be towards the lower end of that range ($40,000 to $50,000).

This Daytona, however, is the one worn by Paul Newman himself, and which actually led to the nickname “Paul Newman” Rolex Daytona. As you likely know these Newman dial Rolexes go for insane amounts of money, including two reference 6263s, which Phillips sold earlier this year and last year, respectively.

One was an 18K yellow gold Daytona “Paul Newman”, reference 6263, which they called “The Legend”, and was sold by Phillips in May 2017 for $3,717,906,

The other was a stainless steel Daytona “Paul Newman” “Oyster Sotto”, reference 6263, sold by Phillips in May 2016 for $2,024,700.

Also worth noting, was the “Bao Dai” sale earlier this year, that is not a Daytona, but is currently the most expensive Rolex ever sold at auction.

Even if Aurel Bacs is the best watch auction promoter in the world – selling on the emotions of a story – ultimately he is still just a salesman trying to gain the highest value for a watch. A watch that is really not that rare, and if it was not owned by Paul Newman, would be worth forty or fifty grand.

It makes no logical sense but based on past experience, this watch will likely reach $5 million. Although, even if it does go over that, I still don’t think it will exceed the truly rare Patek Philippe 1518 that sold last year and set the all-time auction record for a wristwatch at over $11 million.

Considering all of this, and whatever else has been posted online, which should be taken with a lot of skepticism: Is Paul Newman’s Rolex Daytona really worth all the hype? No.

But I guess we’ll see when Paul Newman’s Paul Newman Daytona finally sells – after all the hype – tonight at Phillips Watches.

The new Rolex “Professional Watches” for 2019

This year at Rolex there was not a lot of real “newness” within the Rolex Professional collection. In fact, there are only three new models, and they’re updates to existing watches in the lineup, as opposed to brand new designs. Although there is an all-new movement that powers two of them, and the R&D that goes in to even minute upgrades is surely significant at the world’s number mechanical watchmaker. Below is a quick breakdown of the three new Rolex Professionals, which debuted at Baselworld 2019.

First, the Black and Blue Ceramic Bezel GMT-Master II has been given the same treatment as the stainless steel Pepsi Bezel GMT-Master II got last year, such as the addition of the Jubilee bracelet (Ref. 126710BLNR), now the only option on steel GMT-Master IIs (the Oyster bracelet has been discontinued for all steel GMTs). And Rolex also gave the “Batman” the same caliber 3285 movement, originally introduced last year, that powers the “Pepsi” GMT-Master II. They’ve also smoothed the edges of the case and lugs to make the watch a bit more ergonomic, just like they did with the Pepsi last year.

Second, is the Yacht-Master 42, which comes in a new larger 42 mm diameter case, that’s now only available in 18K white gold (although more versions will likely be added later), and it’s powered by the all-new caliber 3235. The Yacht-Master 42 (Ref. 226659) is fitted with a black Oysterflex bracelet, which combines the comfort of a rubber strap with the robustness of a bracelet. In addition to the increased size, new movement, and rubber strap, the new Yacht-Master 42 also has a new color scheme with all white printing on the black dial, and all-black embossed and polished markings on a matte black ceramic bezel, which certainly gives the watch or more sporty and understated look.

Last, is the Sea-Dweller Yellow Rolesor which is also powered by the all-new caliber 3235. In 2017, Rolex updated the Sea-Dweller for its 50th Anniversary, and this watch is much the same, just with new materials. The case measures 43 mm in diameter (Ref. 126603) and water-resistance is 1,220 meters. What’s new is the two-tone accents. The hands and hour markers are in 18K yellow gold, “Sea-Dweller” is stamped in gilt print on the dial, and the bezel, crown and Oyster bracelet center links are solid 18K yellow gold.

The other Rolex GMT-Master II worth considering in 2019

For a long time, the demand for pre-owned Rolex GMT-Master IIs has been growing, and with it, the prices have risen, significantly.

Along with supply shortages from the manfuacture, this led to the current state where new Rolex GMT-Master IIs in stainless steel – with either the “Pepsi” or the “Batman” bezel – sell for upwards of twice the retail price on the secondary market, which is something that will not curtail anytime soon because like the stainless steel Rolex Daytonas and Sky-Dwellers, there’s also now a long waiting list on the steel GMT-Master IIs.

There’s no end in sight for the waiting list in the short term, although in speaking with Damian Otwinowski, the Vice President of Watches of Switzerland, recently, he aptly pointed out that the demand for the hottest Rolex wristwatch model from the previous year does seem to taper off a bit as each subsequent new model arrives. For instance, as the latest 2019 Batman GMT-Master IIs become more available, the previous year’s 2018 Pepsi GMT-Master II demand tends to go down (in theory), at least marginally, and then the older model becomes easier to attain.

In the meantime, if you cannot wait, one alternative is the GMT-Master II in Everose gold (Ref. 126715 CHNR), which will not fade to yellow over time (as typical rose gold does), is sporty and casual, yet elegant. The Rolex GMT-Master II in Everose is an excellent option if you don’t want to deal with the frustrating inventory issues that exist for most of the steel Rolex models currently, and you can afford the additional cost of the 18K solid gold.

Bottom line, the Everose gold GMT-Masters are easier to find new and don’t have as much of a premium on the secondary market compared to their steel counterparts, yet they’re still within the Professional collection and should hold value well.

Rolex Yacht-Master 42 Reference 226659

The Rolex Yacht-Master was introduced in 1992, so only a relatively new member of the Oyster family. Now, 27 years later, they introduce something big, bold and in white gold.

Although a bit underwhelmed at first based on the press images, the new Rolex Yacht-Master 42 with reference 226659 did not disappoint. I feel kinda old realizing that I vividly remember the introduction of the Rolex Yacht-Master reference 16622. When the Yacht-Master was introduced in 1992, it was only in yellow gold. A watch that wasn’t meant as a divers watch, with its bi-directional bezel and water resistance of ‘just’ 100 meters. It was meant and still is, as a lifestyle piece rather than a tool watch.

There’s also a Yacht-Master II with regatta timer, which is perhaps a bit more functional for those who actually use it on a sailing boat, but the regular Yacht-Master is a luxury timepiece with some elements from their other ‘Professional’ watches. So anyway, when Rolex introduced the steel and platinum (bezel and dial in solid platinum) with reference 16622, it resulted in a long waiting list (yes, even back then). However, it soon resulted in one of the models you could actually pick up for way less money in the pre-owned market than, let’s say, a Submariner or GMT-Master, despite the use of platinum. Below, an image of the Rolex Yacht-Master Rolesor (ref. 116655)

Rolex Yacht-Master 42 Ref. 226659

The popularity recently increased again, with their new models and dial variations. In 2015, Rolex introduced a variation of the Yacht-Master that shows some similarities to the watch we are looking at today. That Rolex Yacht-Master 116655 was also in full gold and with the Oysterflex bracelet (which is actually a strap). If I am not mistaken, it was the first watch to use the Oysterflex.

Based on the first pictures that I saw, I didn’t realize it was in white gold. But during our meeting with Rolex in Baselworld, there couldn’t be any misunderstanding. The colour of white gold has a different hue than that of steel, and when you pick up the watch, of course, you will immediately notice that it is a precious metal instead of stainless steel.

The dial of the Rolex Yacht-Master 42 is distinctive due to its black colour with large white hour markers. Unlike the Everose version of 2015, the printing of the ‘Yacht-Master’ writing is in white instead of red. As always, the hour markers and hands are also made of gold. The distinctive black bezel of the Rolex Yacht-Master 42 is made of ceramic with a black Cerachrom insert. It features raised numerals and graduations with a polished finish. As written above, this bezel is also bi-directional (instead of uni-directional which is the case with Rolex divers watches).

I always find the actual ‘wear’ of a modern 40mm sports Rolex to be larger than the official diameter. This 42mm Rolex Yacht-Master definitely wears bigger than 40mm, but due to the sleek lugs, it is not that much larger on the wrist than my modern Rolex Submariner for example.

Caliber 3235

Just like the Rolex Datejust and new Sea-Dweller that we talked about here recently, the Rolex Yacht-Master 42 shares the same movement: caliber 3235. Like all other caliber 32xx movements, it has been updated to their latest standards and innovations, meaning it has a power reserve of 70 hours and runs well within chronometer specification (-2/+2 seconds per day deviation on average). A solid case back prevents you from admiring this movement though, something that Rolex never does.

As you can see in the image above, the white gold case has all the necessary gold markings in there.

Attached to the Rolex Yacht-Master 42 case is the Oysterflex bracelet. The Oysterflex has a patented cushion system. The cushions on the inside of the strap make the watch being very stable on the wrist and you get the idea that the strap isn’t really touching your skin. Like a floating strap. The Oysterflex bracelet comes with an 18-carat white gold Oysterlock folding clasp (with Glidelock extension system) that is attached to the strap using flexible titanium and nickel alloy metal blade. The same attachment system is used to connect the strap to the watch itself.

Personally, I think I might be in favour of the Yacht-Master 40 in Everose gold, but the white gold definitely has an edge with its new movement. Not that the 42mm isn’t nice or uncomfortable, but the Everose colour is more to my liking when it comes to gold. An Everose version in 42mm though would be perhaps a bit too much.

Identifying the sapphire crystal glass, these steps are the key

For the majority of the love watch family, the sapphire crystal glass is very familiar, and for some friends who just started the watch industry, this is a completely new field. In fact, sapphire is mainly composed of aluminum oxide. This material is originally colorless and transparent. When it contains iron oxide and titanium oxide, it will appear blue. When it contains chromium oxide, it will It will appear red, also known as ruby.

The use of sapphire as a watch glass is mainly due to its high hardness, good sealing, strong shock resistance, etc. So how can we easily identify the sapphire crystal glass? At present, there are three types of watch crystals on the market: plexiglass, mineral crystal glass and sapphire crystal glass. There is a big gap between mineral crystal glass and sapphire crystal glass in quality and price. Here is a very simple method. To that, put a drop of water on the glass mirror of the watch, then stand up the watch and carefully observe whether the water droplets are in the shape of a small ball, which means sapphire crystal glass; if the water flow is scattered, and along If the mirror surface flows down, it can be judged that it is mineral crystal glass.

The Rolex Daytona Rainbow in Everose gold (reference 116595RBOW) is one of those watches that leaves me as puzzled today as it did when it was introduced last March. Although a lot of the attention of this year’s Rolex releases went to their GMT Pepsi, the Deepsea Sea-Dweller and GMT bi-colour models, their extravagant Daytona Rainbow Everose 116595RBOW was talked about a lot as well.

Rolex Daytona Rainbow Everose 116595RBOW

In 2012, Rolex introduced their Daytona Rainbow in yellow gold (116598RBOW) and white gold (116599RBOW). Extremely rare pieces that demonstrated the skills of Rolex craftsmanship for setting stones in watches. These watches are hardly seen, as they are only produced in very limited numbers. These watches are often copied, meaning a gold Daytona is being customized with after-market diamond setting, but you don’t even have to be an expert to see that they don’t match the original Rainbow. At all.

Where the first Daytona Rainbow in yellow gold and white gold had diamond set hour markers, this new version in Rolex’ own rose gold alloy called Everose has 11 baguette-cut, rainbow-coloured sapphires as hour markers. These hour markers colour-match the 36 baguette-cut sapphires as they have the same rainbow gradation. The 40mm Everose gold case has also been set with precious stones, as you’ll find it adorned with 56 brilliant-cut diamonds set into the lugs and crown guard. Part of the difficulty producing these watches is matching the coloured stones.

As said above, the production is limited and you probably need to be very well connected to a large Rolex AD or Rolex themselves in order to be able to purchase one.

It is not the first time that Rolex turns the Daytona into something wild. Although the use of gold and diamonds can be seen often in Rolex’s history, in 2004 they introduced the Daytona reference 116598 SACO, also known as the Daytona Leopard. A leopard print dial with diamond hour markers and a bezel set with 36 baguette-cut yellow sapphires showed Rolex’ audacity.

The strap also had a leopard print to match the dial, and the gold end-pieces were set with brilliant-cut diamonds.

Back to the Daytona Rainbow in Everose gold. Under the hood, this Daytona is the same as any other modern Daytona reference, so powered by the Rolex caliber 4130 movement. This movement has been entirely designed, developed and manufactured in-house by Rolex. It features a column wheel and vertical clutch mechanism for precise chronograph action. It has all relevant and modern Rolex innovations on board, like the Paramagnetic (alloy) Parachrom hairspring, that ensures stability when it comes to temperature changes and – due to its special allow – is not sensitive to magnetic fields. On top, the movement is guaranteed to be accurate up to -2/+2 seconds a day on average and has a power reserve of 72 hours. Rolex has never been very ‘show off’ by putting their movements up for display using a sapphire caseback, so also on this Daytona Rainbow you’ll find a solid (Everose) gold one.

An Everose gold case and bracelet alone isn’t for everyone, let alone a bezel and dial set with baguette-cut sapphires in a Rainbow colour-scheme. And on top, diamond set lugs and crown guards. Now, you can find this ugly or at least ‘not your style’, but what puzzled me is the attraction this watch has on the market and perhaps the community of Rolex collectors. When I put it on my wrist in Basel, it definitely had some attraction for me. Not only because of the Everose gold, but the sapphires in rainbow colours and the pink gold subdials give a nice contrast to the black lacquered dial. The only things I am not fond of are the diamond set lugs and crown guard, to be honest.

Everything is executed to perfection, as it is always the case with Rolex. I am not a Rolex collector, but have (and have had) my fair share of their models and it is actually the single brand that never failed on me when it comes to their products. Rolex ensures they maintain the highest standards when it comes to the use of materials, but also for the selection of their precious stones and the setting of them.

Whether it is the combination of colours, the use of precious materials or the fact that its production is so incredibly low, these Rolex Daytona Rainbow watches are high in demand, proven by the prices that people are willing to pay for them. The low production might be an indicator for speculators that this watch might even go crazier in the future.
Despite watches from other brands that are perhaps even more extravagant or more complicated, it just puzzles me how a very flamboyant execution of a Rolex Daytona can set so many hearts on fire and at the same time, can be so atrocious to others. That, aside from how the market “financially” responds to an important piece like this, is what interests me most about this Daytona Rainbow.

The waterproof watch, these factors played a decisive role

Speaking of the topic of waterproofing on watches, the friends in the forum tend to linger, and some of the friends will continue to vomit their favorite history on the waterproof road. In fact, no matter the general Watches, or those with good waterproof performance, are required to carry out corresponding waterproof measures. The wearer should also establish a good waterproof habit, so that the watch is far away from the water, and its life is extended.

Relevant watch industry professionals point out that the waterproofing of watches is usually related to the following factors: the matching of the watch glass, the integrity of the waterproof apron and the structure of the case. The waterproof watch has undergone a very strict water resistance test before leaving the factory. However, the people needs to remember that with the advancement of time and the wear and tear of some of the watches, the performance of the watch will naturally decline, and when waterproof After the aging of the watch’s waterproof ring, it is another major cause of water in the watch. Therefore, the waterproof watch should be tested once a year. Once the waterproof rubber ring is found to be aging, it should be replaced immediately to avoid further damage to the watch.

Rolex Datejust 36 Reference 126234

This classic is considered to be the mother of all modern wristwatches, and every collector at least needs to have one or have tried it.

The Datejust in 36mm with a white gold fluted bezel and Jubilee bracelet. It is basically one of the Rolex watches I respect most and this year we see an updated version of that classic. Let’s forget about the Sea-Dweller in gold & steel for a moment. The Datejust release is less controversial, very safe even, and that’s what I feel Rolex is best at. Do minor changes, keep watches in production for a long time, only change small bits and pieces for the better (including design). In a time where it feels that Rolex needs to start and discontinue collections more than they ever did, the Rolex Datejust 36 is a safe haven. This watch is ‘always good’. Well, perhaps for the Rolex Datejust II model in 41mm that was – again – short-lived.

Rolex Datejust 36 Ref. 126234

The reference number already gives away the fact that it is a new version of the classic reference 16234. The Rolex Datejust in 36mm, Rolesor configuration (steel & white gold) and jubilee bracelet. It sounds all very simple, but if you have a classic like this, it is easy to do things wrong in newer versions. In this case, Rolex did it right.

36mm might seem small, but it will fit a lot of men (and women) perfectly. If 36mm is not your thing, then Rolex has their 41mm versions for you as well, of course. Luckily, Rolex discontinued the Datejust II and brought the design back to the 36mm style (especially the profile/contour was different) and keep it at 41mm. But anyway, my 18cm wrists can easily handle a 36mm and I must say that due to the shape of the case and the steel bracelet, it appears a bit larger than some of the classic round 36mm watches. That said, always make sure to try it on first.

The Datejust 36 comes in two new versions, the black dial model that we have here and a mother-of-pearl configuration with diamond hour markers. The black sunray finished dial looks pretty amazing and I can only imagine what it will do when it catches sunlight (instead of the artificial light inside the halls of Baselworld). As always, the hour markers and hands are made of 18-carat white gold. Of course, the fluted bezel is also made of 18-carat white gold and gives an equally amazing effect in the sun, like the black dial.

Speaking about the dial, Rolex uses their Chromalight applied hour markers and hands that give a blue luminescent colour in low-light conditions.

What’s Good About It?

There are tons of different Datejust models, but this new Datejust 36 has a dial that certainly stands out. This new sunray finished black dial is definitely worth considering if you’re in the market for a Datejust 36. In combination with the gold fluted bezel and Jubilee bracelet, it is a ‘tres chic’ watch for sure, but will also perfectly work with casual attire. In fact, the Datejust 36 will work with anything (or nothing). It is one of those perfect all-rounder watches, period.

The Datejust 36 has a water resistance of 100 meters, a screw-down (Twinlock) crown and a screw case back, as always. Part of the reason why it is such a perfect all-rounder, it can be worn under almost any circumstances.

On the Jubilee bracelet, one of the most comfortable bracelets ever, there’s the Easylink system that allows you to adjust it with 5 millimetres (without using any tool) for more comfort.

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